COMME des GARÇONS – A Revolutionary Force in Fashion
Introduction
COMME des GARÇONS is more than just a fashion brand—it’s a cultural and artistic movement that has reshaped the boundaries of design, style, and expression. Established in Japan in 1969 by Rei Kawakubo, the brand has built an international cult following through its avant-garde approach, deconstructed aesthetics, and deep philosophical vision. Over the decades, COMME des GARÇONS has emerged as one of the most innovative and influential names in the fashion world, challenging mainstream norms and redefining what it means to dress creatively.
This comprehensive guide explores the legacy, identity, impact, and offerings of COMME des GARÇONS in 1500 words.
The Origins: Rei Kawakubo’s Vision
COMME des GARÇONS (meaning “like boys” in French) was founded by Rei Kawakubo in Tokyo. Kawakubo, who studied literature and art before moving into fashion, never intended to follow traditional norms. From the very beginning, she rejected the industry’s obsession with trends and feminine ideals, instead leaning into abstract forms, muted palettes, and a rejection of symmetry.
By 1973, the brand had established itself as a powerful force in Japan, and in 1981, it made its Paris debut. That first show shocked the fashion world with what critics labeled “Hiroshima chic”—torn fabrics, black-heavy color palettes, and anti-fashion silhouettes. It was raw, rebellious, and completely alien to the glamor of 1980s Parisian haute couture.
Philosophy of Deconstruction and Anti-Fashion
At its core, COMME des GARÇONS is not simply about clothing; it’s about conceptual storytelling through garments. Rei Kawakubo pioneered the deconstructionist fashion movement—taking apart conventional garments and reconstructing them in unexpected ways. This included irregular cuts, inside-out seams, asymmetry, unfinished hems, and layered volumes that ignored conventional body shapes.
Rather than cater to beauty norms, Kawakubo questioned them. Her collections often explore topics like death, loneliness, duality, gender, and time—turning runways into philosophical performance spaces. She once famously said, “I don’t feel too excited about fashion today… fashion is something you try to chase after but never catch.”
Iconic Moments in Fashion History
COMME des GARÇONS is filled with legendary moments that shifted how the industry thought about fashion:
- Paris Debut (1981)
The launch in Paris was met with criticism but later regarded as groundbreaking. The use of black, asymmetry, and distressed fabric was unlike anything the Western fashion world had seen. - The “Body Meets Dress” Collection (1997)
One of the most memorable collections, this line featured exaggerated bumps and bulges that distorted the female body. The padded dresses questioned ideals of beauty, fashion, and physical form. - MET Exhibition (2017)
The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute honored Kawakubo with “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between,” making her only the second living designer (after Yves Saint Laurent) to be the subject of a solo exhibition at the MET.
The CDG Brand Universe
COMME des GARÇONS is not just one label—it’s a multi-faceted fashion empire. Over the years, it has expanded into a collection of sub-labels and collaborations that speak to different markets and artistic visions.
- COMME des GARÇONS Homme Plus
Menswear with a high-concept edge. Known for its strong tailoring mixed with avant-garde themes. - COMME des GARÇONS PLAY
The most accessible and recognizable line, marked by the heart-with-eyes logo designed by Polish artist Filip Pagowski. It’s casual, youthful, and includes basics like striped tees, hoodies, and Converse collaborations. - COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT
Focused on the classic button-up shirt, this sub-label deconstructs menswear staples with playful fabrics, patterns, and cuts. - COMME des GARÇONS Noir
A darker, more elegant take on Kawakubo’s primary vision—offering more subtle, yet still experimental, designs. - CDG (Streetwear Division)
Introduced in 2018, CDG represents a more streetwear-forward, accessible offering of tees, bomber jackets, and logo-centric pieces. It’s targeted at a younger audience and celebrates the DIY spirit of the brand.
Collaborations and Cultural Relevance
COMME des GARÇONS has always embraced collaboration and creative partnerships, often blurring the line between fashion, art, and pop culture. Kawakubo has collaborated with brands and artists from all corners of the world:
Nike – Deconstructed sneakers and reinterpreted classics like the Air Max and Air Carnivore.
Converse – The iconic COMME des GARÇONS PLAY x Converse Chuck Taylor is a streetwear staple.
Supreme – High-profile streetwear collabs that blend luxury with hype culture.
Louis Vuitton – A collaboration that challenged both brands to stretch beyond their identities.
Gucci, Junya Watanabe, Stüssy, H&M, and more have also joined the CDG collaboration roster.
Through these collaborations, COMME des GARÇONS remains culturally current, continuing to influence new generations of designers, creatives, and consumers.
Gender and Identity in Fashion
Kawakubo’s work is often discussed in the context of gender fluidity and non-binary fashion. Long before genderless fashion was mainstream, she was designing clothes that ignored the traditional distinctions between menswear and womenswear.
By removing form-fitting silhouettes and adding traditionally masculine elements into women’s collections—and vice versa—she invited wearers to define themselves outside the boundaries of gendered clothing.
Retail Spaces and the Dover Street Market Legacy
COMME des GARÇONS doesn’t just innovate in clothing—it redefines retail. Rei Kawakubo co-founded Dover Street Market (DSM) with her husband Adrian Joffe, creating multi-brand retail spaces that act more like fashion galleries than stores.
DSM locations (in London, Tokyo, New York, Beijing, Singapore, and Los Angeles) curate the best of avant-garde and luxury fashion, featuring ever-evolving “installations” by brands. Each space is a conceptual playground, drawing in fans from around the globe.
Popular Products and Consumer Reach
Though many of the runway pieces are highly conceptual, COMME des GARÇONS also offers ready-to-wear essentials and accessories that cater to a broader audience.
CDG PLAY Tees and Hoodies – Casual, logo-branded pieces that appeal to fashion fans and casual wearers alike.
Wallets and Bags – Leather goods with minimalist branding and premium quality.
Fragrances – The perfume line is daring and unconventional, often featuring earthy, woody, and smoky notes. Notable scents include “Wonderwood,” “Amazingreen,” and “Odeur 53.”
Sneakers – The CDG x Converse collaboration remains one of the most popular items for fans worldwide.
Sustainability and Ethical Vision
While CDG is not always the loudest brand in terms of sustainability, it emphasizes quality, longevity, and creativity over mass production and trend-chasing. Many garments are made in Japan or Europe in limited runs. The brand also supports small designers through Dover Street Market, helping to nurture independent labels and ethical production methods.
The Legacy of Rei Kawakubo
Rei Kawakubo is one of fashion’s few true philosophers—a visionary who uses fabric as a language to question existence, identity, and beauty. Her refusal to conform, constant reinvention, and belief in art over commerce have inspired generations of designers like Yohji Yamamoto, Martin Margiela, Rick Owens, and even Virgil Abloh.
Despite rarely giving interviews or appearing in public, her influence is immeasurable. COMME des GARÇONS remains not just a brand, but an ideology—one that celebrates freedom, weirdness, and individuality.
Conclusion
COMME des GARÇONS stands at the intersection of art and fashion. It’s a brand that doesn’t just sell clothing—it delivers provocation, thought, and transformation. From its roots in Tokyo to its runways in Paris and its retail stores across the globe, COMME des GARÇONS continues to challenge what we wear and why we wear it.
In an era where fast fashion and hype often dominate the conversation, Rei Kawakubo’s universe offers an enduring lesson: true creativity doesn’t follow—it leads. And COMME des GARÇONS will forever lead with innovation, intellect, and integrity.https://comme-des-garcons.com.co/
